The CES seeks to supplement the rigorous testing of bolts/anchors* already conducted by the UIAA and CE. The methods employed by these organizations are robust, however there are certain deficiencies in site specific situations that need to be addressed. The CES seeks to fill in the gap in testing in less than ideal (and often more realistic situations).
Our project will study conditions not covered by the current testing methods (such as limestones, dolostones, and other “exotic” minerals found in caves), and also conduct third-party comparison of the tests already conducted by UIAA and CE to ensure tests have modern quality assurance. We believe “knowledge is power”, and our study will further reinforce best practices when installing anchors.
We will test Self-driving anchors “Spits”, expansion bolts, and screw in anchors (MMS) in a variety of situations, such as, over/under torqued, incorrect hole depth, hole spacing, 12mm hole for ½ inch anchor and how accurately does the frequency(pitch) from hitting the limestone with a hammer predict the strength of the rock. Most importantly we will document techniques through peer reviewed journals, publications, comparison tables, and social media to refine new techniques for niche environments and demonstrate mechanisms of failure.
We will use randomized, blinded tests that are powered to produce statistically significant results. To be clear, WE ARE NOT CONDUCTING EXTRACTION TESTS IN CAVES. We have located surface karst that will serve as an analog for a cave.
To maintain an unbiased trial, we are not accepting anchor or bolt donations. We are fortunate to have access to discounts from a variety of manufactures. We will accept discounted bolts and hardware as per our pricing agreements from Raumer, Climbing Technology, Kong and Petzl.
Participating in caving and especially expedition caving carries some risk. We hope that the data that we will collect will lead to smarter and safer decisions when cavers are selecting and installing anchors.
*The terms “anchors” and “bolts” are used interchangeably in this document.